Our First History/Foodie Tour – The Emilia Romagna Province…exploring Bologna, Modena, and Parma!  (Part One)

It is a bit strange, and at the same time not, to be glad to be back “home” again in Genoa.  Don’t get me wrong, we LOVED our week away visiting one of the foodie capitols of Italy, the Emilia Romagna Province in our newly adopted Italy! The strangeness comes from feeling at home so quickly! We had decided just over a week ago Saturday (January 26^th) that taking a little vacation sounded good. 

Being appreciators of good food and quality ingredients, we wanted to explore at least some foodie highlights of the region, as well as some of the historic sites. We spent Sunday morning planning the trip, and early Monday morning we were lugging our suitcases around the corner to the train station a few blocks away!

First, a bit of history about the Emilia Romagna region… the Roman consul Marcus Aemilius Lepidus  decided to build a road extending across this mostly flat region in northern Italy to protect and extend their borders. Construction on the Via Aemilia (Via Emilia) began in 187 or 189 BC (date sources vary). The road eventually extended 240 km from Piacenza in the northwest to Rimini on the coast to the southeast. The placement of forts was planned at the approximate distance the soldiers could march in a day (+/- 30 km according to our tour guide).  Towns and cities grew up near these forts. The area is rich in agriculture, good for raising cattle, cultivating vineyards, and growing a variety of produce. Over time, through a lot of hard work, experimentation, passionate care, and attention to detail, the exquisite products we know and enjoy today, especially the aged Balsamic Vinegar, Parmigiano Reggiano cheese, and the Prosciutto di Parma, were created.

First Stop – Bologna!

Bologna has beautiful covered porticos to walk under all over the older historic center of the City and used to have over 20 large towers, now known for its two tall leaning towers.  We first headed for the Piazza Maggiore.  We saw the Cathedrale with the half completed front in marble and the rest in brick. We saw the Fountain of Neptune (Note: interesting fountain spouts). We happened down a street and saw a sign on the house where Guglielmo Marconi (inventor of the radio) was born.  We found a side street that had several small café/restaurants with outside tables and heaters (it was Cold!)…so we looked at the menus and what people were eating and drinking and made our selection. Note: if no one is at a certain place, there is usually a reason (food/drink not as good or too expensive for what you get). Look for the crowded or somewhat popular places with locals! We had to wait a little bit to be served (also 'normale" in Italy), but the wait was worth it! We had local beer and a platter of mouthwatering meats and cheeses!  Afterwards, we wondered around some more coming upon a building with an interesting courtyard and beautifully painted porticos! We had wandered into a part of the University (the oldest functioning University in Europe, reportedly going back to 1088, the year in which the “Stadium of Bologna” was founded.  Apparently, there are many associated buildings and the one we were at had the oldest medical Anatomy Theatre, a very large ornate room built of carved wood with elevated viewing benches all around a central elevated marble slab where human corpses were dissected for medical observation and learning.  There was also an old library meeting room which we could enter with our ticket (biglietto), but the main library was only for student use.

That night we ate at the Taverna di Roberto. A small, quaint restaurant that occupied what was probably an ancient house. Looking around, it looked like mostly locals/Italians were there.  We were seated in a cozy corner next to an ancient fireplace and an alcove with shelves. There was an old radio (maybe 30-40s style). Both Steve and I wondered what history was heard coming that radio!  

The owner/maitre D spoke English and assisted us in ordering the most delectable meal which started with shaved artichoke and fresh mushroom salad, with a balsamic vinaigrette dressing, and thin slices of Parmigiano Reggiano cheese! Next, I had Tagliatelle Bolognese (rich meat sauce over delicate fresh pasta) and Steve had Cotoletta alla Bolognese (a delicious, thin pork cutlet with parma ham and melted cheese served with butter herbed potatoes and spinach)! This was accompanied by a bottle of Laurento Sangiovesse Riserva wine.  My mouth is watering again as I recall this first true Bolognese meal – Simply delicious!!! We often take photos of our food (yes, I know…) but we were so much in the moment that we completely forgot after the salad!

The next day we had scheduled a food tour with Viator.  Our guide was a lively, knowledgeable University student named, Claire (named after the saint).  We started in one of the smaller piazzas, Piazza della Mercanzia. From there she took us on a winding tour from little shops that sold and made pasta, to markets, with little tastings of pastries, cheeses, and meats (especially the mortadella and Prosciutto di Parma). We visited a fresh pasta making “Laboratory” that make the famous tortellini “bellybuttons.”  Lunch was at a little family style restaurant with freshly made tortellini soup with bread and more tagliatelle Bolognese served with wine. Then we sampled aged balsamic vinegar, and finished with gelato!  Claire educated us a little about the City's history along the way. By mid-afternoon we were free to explore more on our own. We meandered around, then headed to the route across town under the covered porticos and up to the Sanctuario di Luca on a hill overlooking Bologna! Not going to lie, it was a strenuous walk/climb up ramp-like straightaways and lots and lots of steps, but we made it!  The views were idyllic, the lighting in the late afternoon sun made me want to paint!!!

That day we walked over 25,000 steps… our feet, legs, and lungs felt it!  We  slept soundly that night even though the street was a bit noisy (see my other blog post about accommodations!).

I’m sure we will go back to Bologna… but next stop (next blog, Part Two is about Modena)!

 

Ciao for now!!!